Lack of progression and fatigue leads to frustration which then leads to an unpleasant lineup. Nobody wants that. The first step in thwarting this downward spiral is to improve your entire surfing experience, from the pre-surf ritual, paddling out, deciding on a spot to surf, making adjustments, choosing the wave for you, riding with flow, kicking out, sharing with others, and finally exiting the water to talk story with others afterwards. At its root, to have more fun means to improve. It doesn't matter where you start in this journey of progression, from novice to pro, you can always improve and enjoy the experience of surfing just a little ... bit ... more.
I had such a blast being interviewed for this one. There was something about it that made it extra special. Maybe because it featured one of my earliest videos on paddling technique.
Did you know that thanks to the comments I received on this video, I decided to leave my full time consulting job to pursue a job that was not even created yet (as a paddling coach)? I know, crazy. But I'm so glad that I did because I get to work with some of the best people in the world.
Shortly after a webinar I conducted, I was contacted by the author of this article. She gained so much helpful information from the webinar that she wanted to feature me in her next article. I was very honored and grateful.
Here it is, in all it's glory.
Every time I run a Surf Trip I get nervous. I get nervous not because...
One of the most fun things I get to do is work with surfers on improving their surfing paddling technique, which in turn helps with their energy efficiency, power, and overall surfing experience.
In this surf simply podcast, I had the opportunity to share a few nuggets of information on paddling technique as well as nerd out on the technical side of paddling a surfboard.
Hope you enjoy and learn something new...
John John Florence is a great example of a strong paddler. In this video, John John Florence Sprint Paddling Technique, we investigate some key elements of a sprint paddling technique, which is slightly different than a regular paddling stroke. When do we sprint? Catching a wave, avoiding getting caught inside, or battling for priority in a competition.
Even though we spend less than 5% of our paddling time sprinting, it's a pretty important aspect to our arsenal!
The video goes more into detail of the following John John Florence Sprint Paddling Technique. Here is a summary:
@surf_coach posed the question "why is surfing addictive" on Instagram and it got me thinking. Why IS surfing so addictive? So I did what I always do when I get curious – I did some research.
I had to start with “what is addiction?” before I tried to reason what makes something addictive. Addiction is a heavy topic and has endless resources that send you to drug, alcohol, sex, and even shopping addiction. I didn’t think my surfing addiction was that bad…but drug and alcohol addicts don’t think they have it bad either.
There were numerous sources discussing the science behind addiction, such as what happens in the brain when the addiction makes a shortcut to the brain’s reward system. Then the brain makes sure it happens again and again, laying down memories of the quick sense of satisfaction, and then creating a conditioned response to certain stimuli....
Sometimes, you just have to mix it up with your surfing workout. This day was our second time out trying to dial in the right wake. While we were working on that, we took a few cracks at it.
By the end, my legs were toast! Funny how a few dozen bottom turns and off the tops will wear you out.
When we talk about building long term strength and muscle memory, it's all about repeating a motion (correctly) over an extended period of time until our brain skips a step. When learning something new, the brain takes two steps to get the body to react. Over time, through perfect repetition, it reduces that to one step.
This is most likely a human adaptation for survival - the brain is realizing that the things we do repetitively might be important so it tries to speed it up.
Unfortunately, with surfing, we get few chances to repeat a motion. That's why workouts like this, skateboarding, snowboarding, and other similar...
If you haven't listened to the Surf Mastery Podcast, you are missing out on a wealth of information.
I had the honor of speaking with Michael Frampton, the creator of the Surf Mastery Podcast, and couldn't have had a better time sharing a few of the topics I discuss in my Surfing Paddling Academy Camps, Workshops, and Online course.
In this podcast, you'll learn about some fundamental, yet often overlooked, paddling techniques that will extend your surf session duration, increase your wave count, and decrease the probability of shoulder injury through incorrect mechanics.
As always, if you have any questions please feel free to contact me.
In this last section in the series on paddling, we investigate the techniques used when knee paddling on a paddleboard. While this is rarely used in the surfing world, by understanding how the mechanics work and why, we gain further insight into the mechanics of the previous situations we've already covered.
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