Lack of progression and fatigue leads to frustration which then leads to an unpleasant lineup. Nobody wants that. The first step in thwarting this downward spiral is to improve your entire surfing experience, from the pre-surf ritual, paddling out, deciding on a spot to surf, making adjustments, choosing the wave for you, riding with flow, kicking out, sharing with others, and finally exiting the water to talk story with others afterwards. At its root, to have more fun means to improve. It doesn't matter where you start in this journey of progression, from novice to pro, you can always improve and enjoy the experience of surfing just a little ... bit ... more.
The side image of the set I saw pulling up to Asu for the first time in July 2010 still lives in my dreams. Six to eight foot solid walls of crystal blue water wrapping and peeling from the top of the reef in front of me.
Earl pulled us right up to the channel. I watched as Earl, Samantha and JP jumped off and paddled to the takeoff zone. Pulling out my camera, I decided it may be prudent to watch a few roll in before extracting my board.
A lull in the action. Seven or so surfers were already in the lineup. "Crowded" by Asu standards. JP, Samantha and Earl added to that but it gave me good insight into which waves to paddle for and where to sit. But I couldn't quite see where to lineup from my vantage point to the side.
A set reared it's head on the horizon beyond. It began reeling down the reef, fast as a freight train, then slowed when it neared Earl. He was positioned about fifty meters...
I don’t speak too much Spanish, but I know what “Baja” should translate to. “Adventure“. Because it’s always an adventure when I venture south of the border down that skinny, jagged peninsula. Or should I say that we get to really test Murphy’s Law (I know, Murphy is an Irish name, but c’mon, when does anything go wrong in Ireland in comparison to Baja?).
When things go wrong, that is where the adventure truly begins. And boy was it fun.
For weeks we had been tracking Hurricane Lorena running up the coast of Mainland Mexico. Is it going to hit our camp? Is it going to send extra swell and perfect conditions? The anticipation was killing me as I woke up each day leading up to the trip and checked the new path five different forecasts were reporting. In the end, Lorena wasn’t the problem. Mario was (I...
Every time I run a Surf Trip I get nervous. I get nervous not because...
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