Lack of progression and fatigue leads to frustration which then leads to an unpleasant lineup. Nobody wants that. The first step in thwarting this downward spiral is to improve your entire surfing experience, from the pre-surf ritual, paddling out, deciding on a spot to surf, making adjustments, choosing the wave for you, riding with flow, kicking out, sharing with others, and finally exiting the water to talk story with others afterwards. At its root, to have more fun means to improve. It doesn't matter where you start in this journey of progression, from novice to pro, you can always improve and enjoy the experience of surfing just a little ... bit ... more.
@surf_coach posed the question "why is surfing addictive" on Instagram and it got me thinking. Why IS surfing so addictive? So I did what I always do when I get curious – I did some research.
I had to start with “what is addiction?” before I tried to reason what makes something addictive. Addiction is a heavy topic and has endless resources that send you to drug, alcohol, sex, and even shopping addiction. I didn’t think my surfing addiction was that bad…but drug and alcohol addicts don’t think they have it bad either.
There were numerous sources discussing the science behind addiction, such as what happens in the brain when the addiction makes a shortcut to the brain’s reward system. Then the brain makes sure it happens again and again, laying down memories of the quick sense of satisfaction, and then creating a conditioned response to certain stimuli....
Every once in a while I hear someone provide a paddling technique which I would consider the most common mistaken belief. How many of you have been told this exact thing?Check it out...
There is no way you are doing this. It's the #1 technique to improve your next surf, and I never see anyone doing it.
Sometimes, you just have to mix it up with your surfing workout. This day was our second time out trying to dial in the right wake. While we were working on that, we took a few cracks at it.
By the end, my legs were toast! Funny how a few dozen bottom turns and off the tops will wear you out.
When we talk about building long term strength and muscle memory, it's all about repeating a motion (correctly) over an extended period of time until our brain skips a step. When learning something new, the brain takes two steps to get the body to react. Over time, through perfect repetition, it reduces that to one step.
This is most likely a human adaptation for survival - the brain is realizing that the things we do repetitively might be important so it tries to speed it up.
Unfortunately, with surfing, we get few chances to repeat a motion. That's why workouts like this, skateboarding, snowboarding, and other similar...
If you haven't listened to the Surf Mastery Podcast, you are missing out on a wealth of information.
I had the honor of speaking with Michael Frampton, the creator of the Surf Mastery Podcast, and couldn't have had a better time sharing a few of the topics I discuss in my Surfing Paddling Academy Camps, Workshops, and Online course.
In this podcast, you'll learn about some fundamental, yet often overlooked, paddling techniques that will extend your surf session duration, increase your wave count, and decrease the probability of shoulder injury through incorrect mechanics.
Listen to or download the podcast here.
As always, if you have any questions please feel free to contact me.
In this last section in the series on paddling, we investigate the techniques used when knee paddling on a paddleboard. While this is rarely used in the surfing world, by understanding how the mechanics work and why, we gain further insight into the mechanics of the previous situations we've already covered.
How many of you have a hard time getting motivated to go work out, when the workout is so monotonous? We'd so much rather just go surf, or skate, or do anything but work out.
XSWIM Workouts mix up that monotony of a normal workout. And just sometimes we need that extra motivation.
We need that extra motivation to affect change. And the only way to get your blood pumping with the competitive fire within yourself is to challenge yourself. Put yourself in uncomfortable situations and do the best you can to overcome that feeling.
It is only in the defeat of the things you are uncomfortable with do you grow. Sometimes you overcome it right off the bat. And sometimes it takes time. But you can't grow without trying.
Challenge Equals Change...
On to the last type of craft we're covering in this series on paddling. Prone paddleboards.
Prone paddleboards obviously have the highest design advantage, so it is even more critical we use that advantage when we paddle. There are some subtle techniques used that differ from the other crafts we've covered so take a look...
This is one of the most innovative duck dive workouts I've seen. After trying it a few times, it's really a lot of fun. Go ahead, try it out!
Like I said in the other Longboard post, there are distinct advantages that Longboards have naturally. But one can hinder those advantages when paddling casually as well as when catching waves. This video will outline the general guideline for paddling technique when catching a wave or sprinting. Hope you enjoy!
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