Lack of progression and fatigue leads to frustration which then leads to an unpleasant lineup. Nobody wants that. The first step in thwarting this downward spiral is to improve your entire surfing experience, from the pre-surf ritual, paddling out, deciding on a spot to surf, making adjustments, choosing the wave for you, riding with flow, kicking out, sharing with others, and finally exiting the water to talk story with others afterwards. At its root, to have more fun means to improve. It doesn't matter where you start in this journey of progression, from novice to pro, you can always improve and enjoy the experience of surfing just a little ... bit ... more.
Can You Time Sets in the Ocean when you're waiting for waves?
Dr. David Sandwell, professor at Scripps Institute of Oceanography, proposed this question to his class.
Using some math, he concluded that yes, you can time sets. But will that be useful to us as surfers?
This video shows how you can use this information to increase your wavecount with the least amount of effort.
Enjoy and feel free to ask any questions:
An interesting question was asked recently. How do I judge skill level for surfers. It was mostly interesting because I don’t think I’m qualified to judge anyone’s surfing ability. And the more I thought about it, I judge my own surfing a little differently than one might think. Check out this video on how I judge my own surfing skill level, and also to learn a sneaky side-effect of looking at your skill level from this perspective (you actually progress your surfing faster this way).
Paddling out to the surf can be challenging sometimes. It's part paddling technique, and part strategy. In this video, I provide one of my secrets to getting out that I cover in the Level 2 paddling course.
It's all about studying the shoreline.
Have a watch and let me know if it helps!
Please reach out with questions, comments, frustrations, success. I'd love to hear from you.
Ever wonder why some waves break fast and hollow, and some waves break slow and mushy? By understanding how waves break, we can improve our decision making on where to catch them and how to ride them.
Hope you enjoy! Please feel free to reach out with questions and comments.
Learn more about Positioning, Timing, Sprint Technique, Pop Up and Getting Out in the Level 2 course. Prior to taking Level 2, be sure to complete the Level 1 Paddling Technique course on Paddling Efficiency, Speed, and Injury Prevention. The Level 1 course lays a strong foundation and is a pre-requisite to effective Sprint Paddling.
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