Lack of progression and fatigue leads to frustration which then leads to an unpleasant lineup. Nobody wants that. The first step in thwarting this downward spiral is to improve your entire surfing experience, from the pre-surf ritual, paddling out, deciding on a spot to surf, making adjustments, choosing the wave for you, riding with flow, kicking out, sharing with others, and finally exiting the water to talk story with others afterwards. At its root, to have more fun means to improve. It doesn't matter where you start in this journey of progression, from novice to pro, you can always improve and enjoy the experience of surfing just a little ... bit ... more.
Sometimes, you just have to mix it up with your surfing workout. This day was our second time out trying to dial in the right wake. While we were working on that, we took a few cracks at it.
By the end, my legs were toast! Funny how a few dozen bottom turns and off the tops will wear you out.
When we talk about building long term strength and muscle memory, it's all about repeating a motion (correctly) over an extended period of time until our brain skips a step. When learning something new, the brain takes two steps to get the body to react. Over time, through perfect repetition, it reduces that to one step.
This is most likely a human adaptation for survival - the brain is realizing that the things we do repetitively might be important so it tries to speed it up.
Unfortunately, with surfing, we get few chances to repeat a motion. That's why workouts like this, skateboarding, snowboarding, and other similar...
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