Lack of progression and fatigue leads to frustration which then leads to an unpleasant lineup. Nobody wants that. The first step in thwarting this downward spiral is to improve your entire surfing experience, from the pre-surf ritual, paddling out, deciding on a spot to surf, making adjustments, choosing the wave for you, riding with flow, kicking out, sharing with others, and finally exiting the water to talk story with others afterwards. At its root, to have more fun means to improve. It doesn't matter where you start in this journey of progression, from novice to pro, you can always improve and enjoy the experience of surfing just a little ... bit ... more.
An interesting question was asked recently. How do I judge skill level for surfers. It was mostly interesting because I don’t think I’m qualified to judge anyone’s surfing ability. And the more I thought about it, I judge my own surfing a little differently than one might think. Check out this video on how I judge my own surfing skill level, and also to learn a sneaky side-effect of looking at your skill level from this perspective (you actually progress your surfing faster this way).
The Epic Conclusion to How We Can Enjoy a Large Beach Break Day without Jet Skis
In the following video, I break down the second key to enjoying a beach break session and provide you with some techniques you can use to improve your experiences out in the water.
See you in the water,
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