Surf culture is difficult to get your head around sometimes. The term "Hardcore" specifically. This term is very common where I grew up and within the general surf population. What does it really mean? It truly depends on how is saying it.
When I was young, "hardcore" meant a surfer who shunned any assistance, charged waves without fear, and surfed all the time. And for many surfers, this is still a base definition. But that is slowly changing and I'm once again honored to be featured in an article by a "hardcore" surfer representing a "hardcore" brand. Well, maybe Birdwell wouldn't be considered hardcore by the above definition, but certainly has a deep connection to surf history and I'm honored nonetheless.
Jamie Brisick, whose bio you can read below, did a great job at consolidating all of the many thoughts in my head into a clear and concise article. And trust me, my words did not come out that clear when we spoke!
In this article, I talk about some of the biggest mistakes surfers make when paddling, the way they might misinterpret how to move through water (and how to look at it instead), and paddling with less effort and how to start doing that.
It's a quick read, but packed full of info:
Oh yeah, if you didn't know about Birdwell, definitely look into them. They make super durable shorts and clothing. And they are rich in surf culture.
- Jamie Brisick
The Dazzling Blue is a series of short pieces about things we do in board shorts. It is written by Jamie Brisick. A Fulbright scholar and a lifelong surfer, Brisick has written several books about surf culture, including Have Board Will Travel: The Definitive History of Surf, Skate, and Snow and Becoming Westerly. He lives in Los Angeles.
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